Monday, July 11, 2016

Pure tourist post this time!

We went to Cape Maclear this weekend with Ted Farwell, one of our former PACRA teammates and Micah's pair partner. The cape was "discovered" by Livingston in 1859 and it's now the busiest place to visit on Lake Malawi. We saw a total of maybe 20 tourists.

There are teams of kids on the beach who serenade tourists using homemade band instruments, such as drums made out of empty plastic containers. One of them sang us "Who let the dogs out" and "In the jungle," while two of the leaders performed interpretive dances.  We passed on another band's offer to "do Shakira."

On Thumbi Island 
The lake and shore around the Cape are declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO because of the variety of bird and fish species found there and nowhere else on earth. We rented a boat to get to Thumbi Island, where our guides fed fish by hand and we saw toucans, eagles and crabs, along with many different colorful cichlids. There are more freshwater species of fish in Lake Malawi than anywhere else in the world.
Happy girl! Stas as the photographer

Two o say it was beautiful won't do the place justice, so I'll just post some pictures and bask in the memories.


Thinking hard about which beer to drink next...will it be Carlsberg? Or perhaps...Carlsberg?

It's always a good vacation when you can find many trees to climb



We have a family photo! 



This is where we stayed--Thumbi view lodge, cute and comfortable with awesome beach chairs and cheap drinks :)

Agnieszka takes good pictures too


Cows crossing!

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Math is relative

It's 3 am. Perfect time to blog, right? With the baby sleeping through the night, I can't sleep anyway.

I want to write about work, probably not for the last time. Kamuzu Central Hospital, one of the country's 4 central hospitals conceived of as tertiary care referral centers, is a half hour's walk or 5-30 minute drive from our house, depending on traffic. This, from the hospital website, is what you see entering the visitor parking lot:


According to dictionary.com, a "hospital" is "an institution in which sick or injured persons are given medical or surgical treatment." But that's the factual definition; the cultural load of a word is where stories lie, and where misunderstandings arise. For example, if I free-associate on the word "hospital" for 2 seconds, I come up with: "white, clean, nurse, love, drugs, pain, death, friends, disinfectant, recovery, fear, babies, surgery, pager, large building, cockroach, elevator, work, hope, despair, emergency room" etc. Your list will be different. The list of a patient will be different from that of a doctor; the list of a woman who delivered a healthy baby different from a son who's just put his mother in palliative care, the list of a Malawian patient different from that of a Malawian doctor, of a Polish patient from an American one, etc, etc, etc. Language operates on an agreement about the factual underpinnings of itself (that is, word definitions), or else all speech would be a subjective hodgepodge of un-translateable experience and we couldn't communicate at all. One of the things I love about traveling is that it forces you to reinterpret and question those factual underpinnings of words and concepts which we take for granted in our own culture.

Hospitals are frequently described in terms of the number of beds and operating rooms they contain. Those numbers help to illustrate a hospital's volume of patients, its importance and function. And they should be easy enough to get, right? Count the beds per unit, add up the units, and voila. Ditto for ORs. But KCH is variously described as having anywhere from 700-1200 beds, depending on the source. How can that be? Math, after all, is supposedly universal. Does 1 bed magically become 2 beds, or half a bed, depending on who's doing the counting? Can Malawians not count? Are they so bad at keeping records that they don't even know how many beds one of their flagship hospitals contains?

The answer, of course, isn't that simple. For starters, the definition of a "functional" bed may include the one placed in the outdoor hallway that connects the rooms, which aren't technically part of the hospital census but which are routinely used to increase the treatment space of a hospital that was built for a much smaller population. Like this, from the Malawi Project website:


Next, "functional" beds aren't, when they're in a unit that's under construction. For example, all the main operating rooms at KCH are currently closed for renovation. If you need your leg pinned with orthopedics, it will happen in the dental operating room; if your baby needs a stoma because of her imperforate anus, she will receive it in the burn OR because the main ORs are just, simply, closed until further notice. So I can't really tell you how many ORs there are at KCH at this time, nor when the main ones will be available again.

Finally, I bet that in your free association on the word "hospital" you did not picture a bed containing more than the patient, and neither did I. At KCH, they do. In the privileged wards, like the burn unit, it's because the whole family might sleep in the same bed with the patient. In the most overcrowded wards--the pediatric ones, for example--it's because there are multiple patients per bed. So depending on how you count, one bed does become two, or three, or maybe even 4.

The thing is, you don't need your own bed to heal. We expect it, because that's our cultural and socioeconomic norm, but your healing isn't contingent on private sleeping quarters. OK, maybe if the patient next to you has tuberculosis or leprosy, that may not be too conducive to health, but in general, a single bed occupancy could be thought of as a luxury; especially when you consider all the other things we take for granted. Like a trained surgeon, or morphine for dressing changes, hot water, air conditioning, blankets, food. But more on those in another post. I do have to get up in 3 hours.

Monday, July 4, 2016

Malaria, Dreamland, and over-ripe mozzarella, or why modern medicine kicks butt

Drove today, no police checkpoints, no traffic stops. So far, second week is looking much better than first week!

I need to write about the burn unit, but I've been working on what I want to say for the past 5 days and it's still not done. So instead I'll write about other stuff. 

First, malaria. Our housekeeper (I'll call her A) didn't come in on Friday because her adopted daughter was sick with a fever of up to 45 degrees Celsius--about 113 Fahrenheit--and sure enough, it was malaria. So first of all, our housekeeper is 27, and has been raising two girl orphans by herself. She also walks 1.5 hours to work each way every day, pays for the girls to get extra tutoring, will go back to school part-time in the fall for nursing, and always has a smile on her face. She's crystal-honest and incredibly giving, and found the time today to bring in some sweet potatoes for the kids because they mentioned how much they loved them when she cooked them for herself last week. So yeah, she rocks. 

I texted her throughout the weekend to make sure she had everything for her daughters and didn't need help. On Sunday she said her daughter was doing much better and would be going in to take her exams today. These are Malawian end of the year exams that determine whether kids get to move on to the next grade. This kid is 9. So she gets diagnosed with malaria on Friday and sits for an exam that determines her next year on Monday. I asked our housekeeper if she could get an excuse and A said that she could, but that she herself (the kid) was insisting on taking the tests. Throughout my academic career I've run into kids and then adults for whom a hang nail represented a good excuse to skip school, and here's this kid who's 9 and legitimately sick who insists on going to school and taking the most important exam of the year! Amazing what some antimalarials and a fighting spirit can do. 

This weekend passed under the sign of sickness. After our trip to the lake, Micah on Saturday afternoon began complaining of feeling achy and tired. He improved a bit on Sunday, so we went to Dreamland with the kids--more on that later. But then Sunday night he made many, many trips to the bathroom and ran a high fever, so I gave him a snack of azithromycin and made him drink ORS (Oral Rehydration Salts, aka gatorade without the flavor), and today he's much better. But no Fourth of July cupcakes for him--which if you know Micah, you know signifies how rotten he must have felt! We have traced the culprit to a block of local mozzarella cheese, as it was the only thing we ate that the kids did not (I feel a bit off, but nothing like his version). Antibiotics--it's what's for dinner!

OK, finally for the fun part/pictures. We took the kids to Dreamland on Sunday. For MK2500 per person, or about $3.33(excluding Janek), you could ride all day, entering and leaving as many times as you wanted to. Dreamland consists of a collection of discarded, probably not-up-to-code carnival rides that some enterprising individual imported from god knows where and plopped in the middle of a dusty red field, enclosed it inside a brick wall, attached a restaurant that serves Bloody Marys on a terrace overlooking the rides, and thus made it into a hungover parent's paradise. You can bring your pride and joys here and let them run free because they can't go anywhere that you can't see from said terrace, and you can blissfully sit and get drunk-or eat pizza (not great) or kebobs (smell awesome) or hummus, which was edible. It's a really brilliant invention that would never fly in the States, and we're definitely going to come back.
Look ma, no seatbelt!

Stas' outfit cracks me up
The kids have now ridden carousels on 3 continents

Finally, for the Fourth, we had vegetarian burgers (cause it was easier on our bellies than beef and cause we don't yet own a grill); and found cupcake mix from South Africa at the local Chipiku (the grocery store that has everything in moderation, except for maple syrup). So we made vanilla cupcakes. Happy 4th, everyone!
Sprinkles are serious business!


Saturday, July 2, 2016

First Saturday, it's time for a road trip!

After a late start (Janek isn't sleeping too well so our nights still take a toll on us) we drove the 2 hours to the closest point on Lake Malawi, Salima/Senga bay:

 "The" guide to Malawi (of which we have 4 separate copies at the house, in various stages of use and editions) states that the only thing this place has going for it is its proximity to Lilongwe. That sounds really jaded to me, when you consider it looks like this:
 In addition to swimming in clear water and enjoying the beautiful views, I drove through FOUR police checkpoints and did not get pulled over even once. So, overall, winning! We passed by countless stands selling ripe tomatoes and bought some--Micah didn't bargain, even though it's expected here, because really, these people have nothing and 10 tomatoes were $1.60--and local crafts. There are handmade baskets galore, in all shapes and sizes, and handmade rugs woven from the same rushes or grasses from which the baskets are made. I wanted to buy them all but we didn't have space in the car so I'll have to plan better next time. If I worked for 10,000 Villages I'd be all over this stuff!

I'm sure I'll be writing many other posts about the lake, because it's close enough for a quick trip and big enough that we won't be able to explore all of it. Janek liked it!




Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Breathing in

We've been here since Sunday afternoon, and the bags are unpacked, the closets assigned, the routines started. The weather has been amazing--dry, highs in the mid-70s and lows down to the high 40s--and sunny, breezy...perfect for dinners on our verandah. Had to use that term because really, what other word would describe this?
It's funny how a bit of wicker furniture, some columns and good back lighting make a mood, in the same way that mosquito nets are ridiculously romantic, suspended from the sticks fashioned into four post cages that guard our beds. The kids enjoy sleeping under them, pretending to be zoo animals in cages with me as the zookeeper. Stas is on a shark kick so he pretends to be a shark, Agnieszka's a cheetah, and somehow it creates endless entertainment.

I made it to the hospital for the first time today. Morning report starts at 7:30, a rough deadline given that Janek screamed for a solid hour and a half last night in protest at being stuck in the Pack'n'Play instead of sharing our bed. We spoiled him out of necessity during our French adventure, and now we're paying for it. Out of the three, he's been the least well adjusted, and it only comes out at night, to the everlasting enjoyment of all involved. Otherwise the kids have all been champs, and love it here. How could you not, when you've got a resident dog, a horse-shaped swing, and a banana tree in the yard?

After morning report I got access to the server and said hi to the clerks, but as for getting security clearance, that will have to wait for tomorrow. We also toured another school for the kids, which is easier said than done considering the school doesn't have a website and the streets here have names no one uses. Google maps works decently well here, though some places appear in completely inaccurate areas. Add to that driving on the left, windshield wiper switches located where the turn signal switch should be, traffic laws that are mere suggestions, all sorts of imaginative modes of transportation--the minibuses that fit three-to-a-seat or bikes carrying four passengers apiece--plus pedestrians intent on committing suicide by crossing the road immediately ahead of your car--and driving becomes a major sphincter-exercising adventure.

In the first 24 hours here I got pulled over twice. The first was for making an allegedly forbidden right turn out of a parking lot. The cop claimed there was a sign; I didn't see one but then I also didn't really see him, suffering as I was at the time from that annoying lack of differentiation between the important and the mundane details, which is what makes the first days in any new setting so hard to navigate. I would've driven right past his upraised arm if it hadn't been for Aggie, our housekeeper-cum-guardian angel, who was with me and screamed for me to pull over. In the ensuing five minutes of awkwardness I attempted to explain to him that I'd just arrived, couldn't read Chichewa, that there hadn't been a sign, and that I didn't have a Malawian drivers' license, all of which he ignored and continued to insist on a fine of 10,000 kwacha (about $13), until finally I played my ace and told him I'm a doctor working at Kamuzu Central Hospital. He then refused to believe that I could really be a physician until I pulled out my ID, at which point he let us go without payment.

The second time happened 8 hours later, this time with the whole family in the car. We were coming home from a grocery shopping trip, it was later than I wanted and there was a traffic stop right before the turn leading to our street.


Star marks the spot--house 35 in area 6, aka home!

A snidely-smiling cop pulled me over and said: "Hello. What have you got for me?" He didn't pretend I'd broken any laws; he just wanted money. Since Micah was sitting next to me, I felt comfortable joking "I'll give you a hug!" He laughed uncomfortably, shone a light in the back window at the three kids huddled in the back seat, and then I offered "I'll let you have one of my kids too, if you want," at which point he admitted defeat and let us go. Even though the cops here are largely good natured, every time this happens the obvious abuse of power makes me both scared and really mad. Clearly I need to get over that because I'm sure I've got about 2,405,938,271 traffic stops ahead of me before this year is up.

Small, colorful reminders of the utter foreigners of the this of this pepper every day here; like the traffic stops, or the indescribably and inexplicably wintery hue of the tropical light that suffuses our afternoons. At the same time, in the background there's the constant awareness that we have the luxury of being here by choice; we have the luxury of being able to leave whenever we'd like. Does this ability to chose create an inevitable "us" versus "them"? What to do with the dumb luck of being born into one set of socioeconomic circumstances and not the other? Is the guilt over this luck in itself a form of entitlement?

It's too late for more of this and I'm tired. Tomorrow the burn unit awaits. Today I am grateful that I get this opportunity, happy that we're here, and relieved that so far, it has been mostly blissful and joyous and full of light. Thanks for reading, and good night!

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

First dose of antimalarials means time is drawing near!

Well, here it is. We all took the mefloquine yesterday, some crushed up into applesauce, others with a swig of water. In 5 days' time we will (karma-, God-, universe-, whatever else-willing) settling into the surgery house in Lilongwe, Malawi, to be called home for the next 11+ months. I'm currently equal parts excited and terrified, which everyone ensures me is fine, but which is a difficult state to handle. Normally I deal with things like this by running around like crazy and adding more projects to my plate but that's not possible right now so I try to deep breathe instead. It's not really working too well.

The kids miss home, their friends, their pets and their normalcy. Overall they're handling the travel like champs, but my daughter has recently confided she's scared she won't be able to make any friends there. My older son fears being eaten by a crocodile. Only the baby doesn't know any better so he continues to smile and gurgle and beam at any stranger who smiles his way.

Am I doing the right thing for my family? This question makes it hard to sleep at night. Should I have considered this prior to committing to this crazy venture? Sure, and I did, but it keeps coming back. I chew the cud of worry and second guess this decision because what hangs in the balance holds both great opportunity and great potential difficulties, and only the living of the experience will tell which one wins.

But I've always regretted the decisions I made out of fear, and never the ones I made out of hope. This felt like the right thing to do from the very start; I still remember sitting in the Grand Rounds presentation by the two women who'd gone before me and thinking "that's going to be me, I'm going to move hell and high water to make sure that this is going to be me." And I'm so grateful to everyone who's giving me this opportunity, and so amazed at my husband, who continues to support this crazy adventure. So I think this will turn out to be awesome-and I will continue to hope that I'm right.